| |
|
The Abbey of Sant’Antimo, a Benedictine monastery is situated in a picture-perfect setting just about 10 km south of Montalcino,
just below the medieval hamlet of Castelnuovo dell'Abate.
It’s one of the most important examples of monastic architecture of the 13th century and by far the most important Romanesque building in southern Tuscany. The church was built around year 1100 and took the place of an older 9th century abbey. Only a few parts of the first abbey are left. It belonged to the Benedectines, and to the Guglielmite friars thereafter.
The Abbey was founded in the era of Charlemagne, and is a prestigious example of the meeting between French and Lombard Romanesque architecture. It was then enlarged in the 12th century. Inside the church a quiet silence circulates among walls and almost transparent alabaster columns. The darkness is barely lit by shafts of light that enter the narrow windows. The extraordinary capitals sculpted in bas relief unfold like a fan with a world of symbols whose meanings seem nearly lost at the beginning of time. Almost at the centre of the church there is a small crypt.
|
The Abbey of Sant’Antimo | Façade |
The façade, which remains incomplete, houses a portal, probably one of a pair planned originally, surmounted by a lintel datable to the first half the 12th century, together with capitals, friezes and ferrules. The element that confers a French imprint on this church more than any other is the basilical ground plan, an ambulatory with radial chapels, unique in Tuscany and among the few present in Italy.
A study of Sant’Antimo was made by the art historian Raspi-Serra, and completed in the 1960’s. It brought us to conclude that the portal on the left side of the church of Santa Maria in San Quirico d’Orcia (approximately 20 km from Saint’Antimo), is none other than one of the two portals intended for the abbey. Perhaps the monastery, at that time, already in a state of decline, decided to give over the second portal to this other church.
The entrance has a high arch, and bas-relief decorations. Particularly interesting is the small doorway to the left; this dates back to the 9th century. Also on this side is the Bell Tower, with single-light and double-light windows. One of the bells dates back to 1219. The pre-Romanesque primitive chapel is visible on the right. The interior has three naves separated by high columns, alternated with pilasters in clusters in the lower part and twin lancet galleries above. The capitals in marble from the nearby Castelnuovo quarry are decorated with floral, human and geometric figures. The apse has radial chapels joined by an ambulatory, as in French Cathedrals.
The church is guarded at the entry by two stylised lions, probably destined for the external portal, datable to the 12th century and attributed to the Master of Cabestany, as is the splendid capital with the scenes of Daniel in the lions." The refined geometrical and leaf motifs, precise in outline and cleanly carved, indicate an origin in Auvergne.
To the right of the larger church, set at the beginning of the ambulatory, there is a Carolingian chapel of the 8th or 9th century, a small building with a single rectangular aisle and a semicircular apse. Outside on the left, the imposing bell tower rise to around 30 m, divided into four orders, decorated in Lombard style with a with a hint of Pisan taste in the columns at the angles of the base. The bell tower houses two bells, one of which is engraved with Abbot Ugo's name (1216-1222) and the date 1219.
|
The Abbey of Sant’Antimo | Interior |
The interior consists of three naves, with round arches resting on columns with alabaster capitals, all carved with geometrical, human, animal and flowers motifs. The women's gallery gives the hall a particular perspective; the semicircular apse, flanked by the apsidioles, is introduced by the altar, which the crypt lies beneath. A wooden crucifix from the second half of the 12th century stands behind the altar. Another wooden sculpture from around 1260 reperesenting the 'Madonna with Holy Child in Throne' rests against the right wall. The refined architectural elements recall a decorative richness with French influences.
Abbey of Sant’Antimo website |
|
|
| |
|
Nearby the town of Sant’Angelo in Colle, 6km from Sant’Antimo, an enchanting well-preserved village on the top of a hill contained in its circle of walls. You can drive there on a dirt road from Sant’Antimo or on a paved road from Montalcino. |
Walking from Montalcino to the Abbazia di Sant' Antimo and back again
The route left Montalcino on the Grossetto road before turning south-east onto a strada bianca which led all the way to the Abbazia di Sant' Antimo. Much of this strada is shaded by trees as it slowly descends into the valley. After about 2 km the small hamlet of Villa a Tolli is reached. The main lane is lined with old farm buildings, several of which have been converted to modern dwellings. Beyond Villa a Tolli the route passes a modern farm and then passes through a vineyard. After the vineyard the route drops to the bottom of the valley and joins a stream passing through a small wood. This section was the quietest I experienced during a week crossing southern Tuscany. Gradually the trees clear and the view begins to open up - the hill top town of Castelnuovo dell'Abate is visible on the skyline ahead - and Abbazia Sant' Antimo appears nestling near the bottom of the valley.
From Sant' Antimo the return involves climbing up to Castelnuovo dell' Abate to rejoin the road back up to Montalcino. This road climbs some 250 metres in the space of 8 kilometres - but is almost perfectly graded. As you near the crest of the hill views open up over the rooftops of Montalcino and to the countryside beyond.
Montalcino is sited at an altitude of 567 metres - some 300 metres above the surrounding countryside. An even higher vantage point is afforded by the ramparts of the Rocca (castle).
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sant’Angelo in Colle
Sant'Angelo in Colle is a typical medieval village situated on a low hill (450m) within the Natural Park of Val D’Orcia, in the southwestern subzone of the Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino appellation.
From here you can admire the view of Amiata Mountain.
It's 8 km from Montalcino.
On reaching the top of the hill where the village of S.Angelo is perched, it is difficult not to pause and survey the surrounding countryside. It is incredibly beautiful and this view cannot have changed much since 20 June 715. On that date Sancto Angelo Abollenis was the site of a meeting of two bishops who were debating the exact boundary between the diocese of Siena and Arezzo. The meeting was organised by request of King Liutprando in order to settle an ongoing dispute.
No doubt this beautiful hamlet, that nowadays overlooks farmhouses and vineyards in Montalcino territory, in those days was simply a church built by some hermits at the top of the hill in the shade of the oaks that used to grow there. Just a few centuries later, around 1200, Sant’Angelo in Colle was more or less its current size. Various sources mention S.Angelo during the XIII° century, recounting, amongst other things, the construction of the “cassero” – the imposing watchtower that still stands and welcomes visitors who have climbed the hill to explore the village.
|
|

Sant’Angelo in Colle |
|
|