Outside the walls, there is the wondrous sight of San Pietro and Santa Maria Maggiore, two ancient basilicas placed on solitary hills, just a few metres one from the other. San Pietro was founded at the beginning of the VIII century, it is the most important church in Tuscania and one of the first, great architectural accomplishments for Christianity in the Lombard-Romanesque style, one of the very first truly Italian churches. The church is facing east, on the hillside which was an acropolis for ancient Tuscania. It is not the result of a single project and a single phase of construction, rather it is the product of more than one intervention, expansion and decorative contribution. It is an architectonic work of sacred and social art, carried out by the architect, by the craftsmen and by the city itself. In the nearby basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, the oldest in the town, we find the same Romanesque style with gothic elements evident in the picturesque portal. The interior hosts an exquisite ambo, a baptismal font and numerous pictorial decorations, including the Final Judgement.
The important Abbazia di San Giusto, in the countryside near the town, is of the same style and from the same period. This abbey is completely restored and open to visitors.
In the Medieval historical center the beautiful Roman Basilica of San Pietro stands on the old Etruscan acropolis. The basilica, one of the most magnificent monuments in the Viterbo area, probably dates to the eighth century. It has a remarkable thirteenth-century facade with three portals; the central Cosmati-style portal is surmounted by a gallery of small arches, between two winged animals, and by an elegant rose window incorporated in a panel decorated with the symbols of the Evangelists and flanked by two double lancet windows decorated with fanciful bas-reliefs of the Umbrian school. The interior has massive 11th century columns with beautiful capitals and decorative pavings. The precious twelfth-thirteenth-century frescoes of the Roman school, reflecting Byzantine influence, which decorate the apse, were seriously damaged in the earthquake of 1971.
From the right-hand aisle, a staircase leads to the magnificent eleventh-century crypt with cross-vaults supported by 28 marble columns, originating from Roman buildings and decorated with archaic capitals, several of which are Corinthian of the fourth-fifth century.
The Romanesque Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore was built during the same period as the church of San Pietro. The facade, preceded by a massive Romanesque tower, has three finely decorated portals. The central one, in white marble, is flanked by two spiral fluted columns: the ornate jambs are sculpted with St. Peter and St. Paul, and depicted in the lunette are the Madonna and Child with the mystic Lamb and the scene of the sacrifice of Abraham.
The interior was rebuilt with fragments from the 8th, 9th, and 12th centuries.
The church of Santa Maria della Rosa is a masterpiece of Romanesque-Gothic art and was built on a former shrine that stood within the castle walls. The horizontal design of the façade is typical of the architecture of the Abruzzi region, and it is relatively unusual in Latium.
A short distance outside the walls, at the beginning of the road to Marta, are the church and former convent of Santa Maria del Riposo. The monastery next to it has a very large cloister and it now hosts the archaeological museum of Tuscania.
The ancient castle of Montebello, about 13 kilometres along the road to Tarquinia, has a surprising collection of works by Giuseppe Cesetti.
The cathedral of San Giacomo, with a Renaissance structure and an eighteenth-century interior, houses an admirabie fifteenth-century marble tabernacle, a polyptych of the Sienese school by Andrea di Bartolo (fourteenth century), St. Bernardino by Sano di Pietro from the fifteenth century and a fifteenth-century triptych by Balletta.
In the church of San Marco, we can admire several fourteenth-century frescoes, including an Annunciation, a Madonna and Child and a Bishop Saint.
Torre di Lavello
The belvedere of the Tower of Lavello is the focal point to the entrance of the Torre di Lavello Park. This picturesque greenspace offers one of the most beautiful views over the historic centre of Tuscania and the splendid valley of the Marta river.
Fontana delle Sette Cannelle
The city's Fountain of the Seven Spouts dates back to the Etrusco-Roman period and is a short distance away from the historic lavatoi (public laundry). A neighbourhood lavatoio was a focal point in villages where women would gather, talk and clean to the soothing music of running water freely flowing into the basins.
Abbazia di San Giusto at Susa, founded in 1028 or 1029,
A significant stability of human settlements, dates to the Etruscan period, as witnessed by the numerous necropolises in the area. The most famous, on the slope opposite the hill, is the one of the Madonna dell'Olivo with the tombs of the Curunas family (containing remarkable sarcophaguses found in 1967-1970), of the Sarcophagus (decorated with scenes of Amazonomachy) and of the Queen, characterised by a series of labyrinths with about thirty tunnels.
Tuscania was a favourite location for film director Franco Zefferelli, who filmed Romeo and Juliet and The Taming of the Shrew here. Also Otello by Orson Welles, Uccellacci e uccellini by Pier Paolo Pasolini, L'Armata Brancaleone by Mario Monicelli and Francesco by Liliana Cavani were filmed at this location.
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Chiesa di San Pietro, Tuscania
Chiesa di San Pietro, Tuscania, interieur |