The quiet Tuscan village of Montalcino has undergone few changes since medieval times, when it was a stronghold pertaining to the nearby city of Siena. With a small population of around only 6,300 inhabitants, Montalcino was once a strategic point along the road to Rome and offers a panoramic view of the beautiful Asso, Orcia and Ombrone valleys. The town’s fame derives from its production of one of Italy’s finest red wines known as Brunello di Montalcino, regarded by visitors and residents alike as a ‘heavenly’ vintage. Local Brunello can be sampled in the large number of wine shops and enoteche (wine bars) lining the narrow streets, or just outside the city walls in one of the many wineries offering daily tours and a free taste to any who make the trip. The history of Montalcino dates back to the Etruscan and Roman periods, and its name was formed from the Latin ‘mons ilcinus’ (holm-oak mountain). Though independent for a time in the 12th century, the town later became subject to Sienese rule. During the 14th century, the city’s fortress was built to better defend the southernmost border of the Sienese Republic. However, four years after Florence defeated Siena (in 1555), Montalcino landed within the jurisdiction of the Granducato di Toscana of Cosimo dei Medici. In addition to its sleepy medieval streets and sun-soaked vineyards, Montalcino presents other sights such as the Piazza del Popolo (People’s Square) and the Palazzo dei Priori (old Town Hall), as well as the medieval churches of San Francesco, San Egidio and San Agostino. The city’s fortezza (fortress) is almost perfectly preserved, while its two interior courtyards offer a great spot to find shade or hold a picnic. The Enoteca La Fortezza serves up a sophisticated array of cheese plates and local wines to visitors. The Cathedral (of San Salvatore) and the Diocesano Museum are full of sacred works of art by 11th to 16th century painters, and contain other medieval objects and archeological artifacts from San Antimo Abbey (which is located 10 km from Montalcino).

The Abbey of Sant’Antimo, in a picture-perfect setting just about 10km south of Montalcino, dates from the 12th century. Follow the road from Montalcino to Castelnuovo dell’Abate. You will see Sant’Antimo on your right, down in the valley, just before Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Drive down into the valley and you will see parking along the road. It’s one of the finest Romanesque religious buildings in Italy. Nearby the town of Sant’Angelo in Colle, 6km from Sant’Antimo, an enchanting well-preserved village on the top of a hill contained in its circle of walls. You can drive there on a dirt road from Sant’Antimo or on a paved road from Montalcino.

Monte Oliveto Maggiore is a stunning abbey perched on the top of a cliff in the Crete Senese area. The Abbey was built in the 15th century. Monks live on the premises and the church is used for religious purposes. The Great Cloister, beside the church, has a famous fresco series about the life of St. Benedict by the painter Sodoma. The abbey closes midday, so be sure you get there well before noon or in the later afternoon. There is a gift shop, run by the church, just beside the main building. The trip from Siena to the Abbey at Monte Oliveto is worth it just for the drive; seeing the abbey and the frescoes is an added benefit. As you go south from Siena, you drive through the Crete Senese area of Tuscany. From Siena, take road 438 to Asciano. Continue on road 451 to Monte Oliveto. You can also get to Monte Oliveto from the SS2 Cassia at Buonconvento.

The Via Francigena or Via Romea has been for centuries used by merchants, prelate, soldiers and pilgrims traveling back and forth from the north of Europe through Siena, Val d’Orcia and Rome to Jerusalem carrying ideas as well as money and produce. It was first documented in 957 by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his Diary regarding the places he passed through in his way towards Rome. From Radicofani north the Via follows close to the Cassia, another of the old roman roads. The Abbey of San Salvatore, Bagno Vignoni, San Quirico d’Orcia, Sant’Antimo, Montalcino, Buonconvento, Monte Oliveto, Asciano were also stops of Sigeric. The via Francigena continues passing through Siena, Colle val d’Elsa, San Giminiano, Volterra.

Thanks to its central position on the Via Francigena, San Quirico dOrcia was a focal point for many historic events, including the meeting between the papal legates and the German emperor Frederick the first in 1155. Visitors to this old Etruscan town, with its well-preserved ring of walls, can admire several historic churches and palaces. Built on a design by Carlo Fontana (17th century), Palazzo Chigi Zondadari in Via Dante Alighieri, is famous for the frescoes decorating the walls (by Francesco Corallo, Michelangelo Ricciolini and others). The 16th century Horti Leonini gardens, created by Diomede Leoni, lie in front of the Palace. A tour of the town includes the Walls and Gate or Porta Cappuccini, the Church of S. Maria Assunta (12th cent.), the Church and Convent of S. Francesco (Marian Sanctuary and the Romanesque Collegiate (11th and 13th cent. doorways), containing a triptych by Sano di Pietro and 15th-16th cent. wooden choir stalls) and the Hospital of S. Maria della Scala (1543), The hospital, built in the 12th century, offered shelter to pilgrims and travelers who went along the Via Francigena. In the courtyard there is an l6th century well, and a small loggia, partly blocked in, with three elegant small columns.

Text courtesy of APT Maremma a.o.