The Via Francigena in Tuscany
 
 

The Via Francigena is an ancient road between Rome and Canterbury, passing through England, France, Switzerland and Italy. In mediaeval times it was an important road and pilgrimage route. To pilgrims headed south, it was the Via Romea; to those headed north, the Via Francigena.

The Via Francigena was the major medieval pilgrimage route to Rome from the north; even today pilgrims travel this route, but in far fewer numbers than the Way of St. James (Camino de Santiago). The route was first documented as the "Lombard Way", and was first called the "Frankish Route", the Iter Francorum, in the Itinerarium sancti Willibaldi of 725, recording the travels of Willibald, bishop of Eichstätt in Bavaria. The Via Francigena is first mentioned in the Actum Clusio, a parchment of 876 in the Abbey of San Salvatore al Monte Amiata (Tuscany). At the end of the 10th century Sigeric the Serious, the Archbishop of Canterbury, used the Via Francigena to and from Rome to be consecrated by the Pope;[2] he recorded his route and his stops on the return journey,[3] but nothing in the document suggests that the route was then new. Other itineraries include those of the Icelandic traveller Nikolás Bergsson (in 1154) and Philip Augustus of France (in 1191).[4] Two somewhat differing maps of the route appear in manuscripts of Matthew Paris, Historia Anglorum, from the 13th century.

The Via Francigena was not a single road, like a Roman road, paved with stone blocks and provided at intervals with a change of horses for official travellers. Rather, it comprised several possible routes that changed over the centuries as trade and pilgrimage developed and waned. Depending on the time of year, political situation, and relative popularity of the shrines of saints along the route, travellers may have used any of three or four crossings of the Alps and the Apennines. The Lombards financed the maintenance and defence of the section of road through their territories as a trading route to the north from Rome, avoiding enemy-held cities such as Florence. Unlike Roman roads, the Via Francigena did not connect cities, but relied more on abbeys.

 

The Via Francigena or Via Romea was first documented in 990 by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his diary describing the places he passed through as he returned to Canterbury after receiving his cope and pallium, a circular band of white wool with pendants, worn by archbishops over the chasuble, from the Pope. The roads that Sigeric followed became known as the Via Francigena (the road to France) or "Via Romea" (the road to Rome) and for centuries were used by merchants, prelates, soldiers and pilgrims travelling back and forth from the north of Europe to Rome and Jerusalem.

The 80 stages in Sigeric's itinerary averaged about 20 km a day, covering some 1700 km; they have helped to identify the route.

Having crossed the English Channel to Calais, or, following Sigeric's example to Wissant, still called Sumeran (Sombres) by Sigeric, a pilgrim bound for Rome might stay in Gisne (Guines), Teranburh Thérouanne, Bruaei (Bruay), Atherats (Arras), Reims, Châlons-sur-Marne, Bar-sur-Aube, Langres, Besançon, Pontarlier, Lausanne and Saint-Maurice, then travel over the Great St. Bernard Pass to Aosta, Ivrea, Vercelli, Pavia, Fidenza, Aulla, Luni, Lucca, Poggibonsi, Siena, San Quirico, Bolsena, Viterbo and Sutri before reaching Rome. One of the best-known places on the Via Francigena is the Passum Padi in the municipality of Senna Lodigiana, where Sigeric crossed the Po River.

Today the Via Francigena enters Tuscany at the Cisa Pass in the area called Lunigiana north of Pontremoli and heads south toward Acquapendente in Latium passing through Lucca and Sienna. It is still possible to follow approximately the ancient road and to find refuge in most of the same villages mentioned by Sigeric. The route passes through four distinct geographical areas where the landscape, the building materials and the gastronomic traditions follow their own local traditions, occasionally still reflecting mediaeval influences.

 

The first of these four areas begins at the Cisa Pass, the crossing point from the Region of Emilia Romagna into the Region of Tuscany, north of Pontremoli in the Appennine mountains, and follows the valley of the Magra river down to Aulla and Sarzana. This area is called Lunigiana, after the Roman port city of Luni, today an archaeological site, where marble was sent by ship to the rest of the world, as from the port of Carrara today. Sarzana, further inland, became an important intersection where the Roman road, called the Via Aurelia, and the Francigena met. This area is characterised by castles, walled mediaeval villages and isolated monasteries, constructed primarily of the gray limestone found locally. These places are never of great size and were built on the steep slopes of the mountains along the principal road and were easily defended. All around these locations there are woods, small tributaries and natural caves.

 

The second area begins at Sarzana and goes past Lucca to Altopascio. The principal characteristic of this sector is that the road hugs the foot of the Appuan alps and stays inland from the sea coast. The main towns one sees are Sarzana, Carrara, Massa and Pietrasanta, all in the marble working area, and Camaiore which is the only village mentioned by Sigeric after Luni. It is a flat area with some hills just before Lucca and was dotted with numerous churches, abbeys and hospices, the most famous being the Abbey of Camaiore, which goes back to the 8 C and where Sigeric certainly stayed. Lucca was already an important city at the time of Sigeric as it was the seat of the Duchy. Within the walled city of Lucca, the traveller today can visit many different kinds of museums and churches, particularly the Cathedral where there is a highly venerated crucifix said to show the real face of Christ. Lucca is also the starting point for trekking in the famous Garfagnana area where many foreign artists and musicians have settled. This sector ends at Altopascio which was, at the time of Sigeric, a very large centre for pilgrims, with places of refuge and hospices.
The third sector is the longest segment of the Francigena and runs from Altopascio, down to Fucecchio, and on to Sienna passing through Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, Poggibonsi, San Gimignano and Monteriggioni before it arrives in Sienna. Near Fucecchio, the road goes through very open and flat land that used to be swamp and which is still the crossing point of the Arno river, and there are rolling hills beginning near Castelfiorentino. All the cities were walled and the mediaeval atmosphere is still evoked by the narrow streets, gates and the buildings made from the local sandstone. The northern part of this sector passes small industries related to the tanning of leather and to the south through areas dedicated to the production of wheat, wine and olives. If one stops around Fucecchio, it is possible to make side trips to places such as Galleno, to see the longest reconstructed stretch of the original Via Francigena (1150 meters) or to Vinci the home of Leonardo, or Coiano mentioned by Sigeric, but today out of the way. The food is good and so is the local wine. After Fucecchio, one goes near San Miniato, a mediaeval village, through Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, Poggibonsi and San Gimignano. This last mentioned village is a very famous mediaeval walled city, today very active, famous for its 13 C towers and the Collegiata, where Ghirlandaio painted the chapel dedicated to the local saint, Santa Fina. Here again there are many places to visit - museums, churches and in the area some of the finest vineyards. Not far away there is Montelupo known for is pottery and ceramics. Next, we proceed to Colle Val d'Elsa, famous for its glass and crystal industry as well as for its historical past, and on to Badia a Isola and Monteriggioni, a splendid walled town. This is where one can again begin trekking and in fact there are remains of the via Francigena near here as well.
The fourth sector begins in Sienna and goes south to Abbadia San Salvatore. The geography is quite distinctive. The open rolling hills are planted with golden wheat, there are the gray crags of the Crete Senese and some of the most famous monasteries and great abbeys are located in this area. Sienna has always been an important political, economic and cultural area, and differs from the rest of the Tuscan cities in that it received many influences from France.

From Sienna south, the Via Francigena closely follows the Via Cassia, another of the old roman roads. Visits to Isola d'Arbia, Buonconvento, Montalcino, the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore and San Quirico d'Orcia are all worthwhile. However the last two stops of Sigeric, Bagno Vignoni and Abbadia San Salvatore, are the most spectacular. Bagno Vignoni is where for centuries people have gone for health cures because the sulphur water baths. The Abbey of San Salvatore is the best conserved of the mediaeval villages with a great Abbey attached. It was already famous in the 8 C.
On these pages we focus on the Via Francigena walk route from Passo to Cisa a Siena, and from Siena to Viterbo.
From Passo to Cisa a Siena
(See the stages on Google Earth)
  Fom Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli - 19,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From Pontremoli to Aulla - 32,9 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From Aulla to Avenza - 32,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
 

From Avenza to Pietrasanta - 27,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails

  From Pietrasanta to Lucca - 32,3 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From Lucca to Altopascio - 17,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From Altopascio to San Miniato - 23,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From San Miniato to Gambassi Terme - 25,6 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano - 13,4 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From San Gimignano to Monteriggioni - 29,8 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
  From Monteriggioni to Siena - 20,5 km
Road Book (pdf)
Google Earth and GPS trails
   
   
   
   
From Siena to Viterbo
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
 
 
 
 
   
The Via Francigena | Walk Route

   
  Via Francigena – Walk Route
The road books, the maps, the Google Earth and the GPS trails for the walk route of the Via Francigena. A practical and utile guidebook for the numerous Europeans who choose to experience Europe following the route and discovering the paths that make up the historical stages.
The Via Francigena itinerary is completely traced by GPS and fully described on maps and road books. All the materials are available on www.francigenalibrari.beniculturali.it/news1_en.html
   
  (See the complete Route on Google Earth)

   
The Via Francigena | Links

   
  Reasoned list of useful cultural and tourist links on the ancient faith ways.

   
       
Guide books

   
  La Via Francigena. Vademecum dal Gran San Bernardo a Roma


Way from the Grand St-Bernard to Rome.

   
  Paul Chinn and Babette Gallard, The Lightfoot Guide to the Via Francigena, Pilgrimage Publications, 2009. In 3 volumes, Canterbury to Besançon; Besançon to Vercelli; and Vercelli to Rome. Available through our Bookshop. Mainly inteneded for cyclists, but it gives good route-finding information with GPS references and details of accommodation and services.    
  The best guide book to the Via Francigena in Italy is written in Italian. Guida alla Via Francigena: 900 chilometri a piedi sulle strade del pellegrinaggio verso Roma, by Monica d'Atti and Franco Cinti. (Supplemento al numero 132, aprile 2006, di "Terra di Mezzo." Piazza Napoli 30/6, 20146 Milano.) ISBN: 88-8938-565-0. Concise route description of the section from the Great Saint Bernard Pass to Rome, with details of acommodation and services. Its maps are incredibly detailed, there are many photos and much information can extracted even if you can't read Italian.

There is a separate set of three maps with distances and GPS settings from the same publisher. ISBN 9788889385609

   
  La Via Francigena Guida per il pellegrinaggio a piedi dal Gran San Bernado a Roma, Luciano Pisoni & Aldo Galli, ADLE Edizioni, Padova, 2004. ISBN: 88-8401-046-2. Guide to the Italian section of the route comprising a book and 28 laminated A4 size maps, with walking instructions and accommodation details on the back of each one.

   
Maps

   
  Monica D’Atti & Franco Cinti, La Via Francigena. Cartografia e GPS. Dal Monginevro a Roma lungo l’itinerario storico, Milan: Terre di Mezzo Editore, 2007. ISBN: 978-88-8985-60-9, 22€.

3 large sheets of maps in a set, covering the 800km from the Monginevro Pass over the Alps to Rome at a scale of 1:30.000, i.e. nearly two and a half inches to the mile. In full colour there are 40 detailed maps covering all the stages of the journey, with the walkers’ route traced on them, height profiles, types of roads/paths used and complete GPS data. Designed initially to accompany the authors’ own guide book (see above) the only drawback (at present) is that those wishing to follow the “Sigeric route” (i.e. cross the Alps via the Great St. Bernard Pass) will have to wait till Vercelli (150km into the Italian part of the route) before they can use them.

   
  TOPOFRANCIGENA A.Canterbury-Gd St-Bernard 1000km: 40 geo-cultural pocket-sized colour map-cards 150g prepared by Adelaide Trezzini with Giovanni Caselli providing the graphics View

TOPOFRANCIGENA dal Gran San Bernardo a Roma (900km) was published in 2005. The Topofrancigena is a set of maps (again in two parts Canterbury to St Bernard Pass published - Italian 2005) of the route. The Canterbury to St Bernard Pass section consists of 40 pages in full colour, with alternative routes, very loosely bound so old pages can be discarded. The maps show town or villages with accommodation and churches and historic sights.

   
 

Walking Pilgrim, old pilgrim routes in W Europe | Via Francigena in Italy

WMS/APIs for Maps: Italy | Portale Cartografico Nazionale; includes 1:250,000, 1:100,000 and 1:25,000 topo maps (beware! many of the sheets are very old)